Mallefar er syg (hvide pletter) og opfodring af hans unger!

I dag stak mallefar halen ud af hulen, hvor han har ligget med æg længe, og så så jeg, at han havde hvide pletter. Han er syg!
For små to uger siden havde en f mine sværddrager hvide pletter og jeg behandlede hele akvariet med noget jeg købte hos dyrehandleren. Nu er sværddrageren rask, men min malle - som betyder meget mere for mig - er ret angrebet.
Jeg har startet behandlingen ige og hældt lidt ned i hans hule (ellers var jeg bange for han ikke blev ramt af medicinen). Er der andet jeg kan gøre? Hvad skyldes sygdommen? Det er fem år iden de sidst har haft hvide pletter og nu to gange!

Mallefar har sluppet malleungerne fri i dag. De gemmer sig bag pumpen. Er de mon også smittet? Der er fem og en i hans hule. (der var heller ikke mange æg)

Jeg har givet dem en agurk. Jeg skrællede den og lagde den i kogt vand i ca et halvt minut. Men der er ikke nogen der spiser af den? Den var mest til malleungerne

Hvorfor skrælle agurken ? det er i skrællen næringen sidder. resten er mest vand, så vidt jeg ved.

Jeg tænkte, at der sad sprøjtegifte i skrællen?

#3 Skræller du også en agurk inden du selv spiser den?

Der må ikke bruges sprøjtemidler i drivhuse der producere frugt/grønt til menneskeføde.
Mvh.
Morten Lyngsaa

Giv fiskene en varmekur mod pletterne. Hæv temperaturen langsomt til 32 grader, sørg for ekstra gennemluftning evt med en iltsten/luftpumpe, hold temperaturen her ca. 12-14 dage og sænk så temperaturen igen til den normale. Her efter skulle du være af med pletterne. Maller kan ikke tåle/er mere modtagelige for kobber som er et af midlerne i medicinen mod hvide pletter/fiskedræber.
Mvh.
Morten Lyngsaa

varme for sygdommen til at tiltage og det i sig selv er ikke nok . Jeg ville købe en kur mod hvide pletter og bruge den sammen med varme.


mvh

Jan

#6 forkert.. 32-33 grader slår parasitterne ihjel.
Du har dog ret i at sygdommen tiltager, i den forstand at parasitterne afslutter deres cyclus hurtigere.

Her er en lille afhandling om lige netop dette problem:
Fiskedræber!
Ichthyophthirius multifilis is a very common protozoan parasite that finds the aquarium environment a most hospitable location for carrying out its life cycle. Because of the low densities of fish in large volumes of water in the wild, even though every cyst can release hundreds to a thousand or so swarmers, few if any will manage to find a suitable host. Those fish that do get infected will likely have only a single or very few parasites attached to its body, which will soon fall off. The fish will heal and be none the worse for it. In the wild, Ich is really no big deal.
A home aquarium, by contrast, is a confined space packed with many fish (relatively speaking). A single Ich parasite brought in on a new fish can quickly multiply and decimate an entire tank full of fish. Unlike in the wild, every larva has an excellent chance of finding a host, and each fish can end up with hundreds of parasites attached to its gills, fins and body. Such an onslaught is too much, and the fish dies from respiratory distress caused by gill damage, osmoregulatory imbalance caused by the many punctures in the fish?s skin, or secondary infections of bacteria or fungi that attack the open wounds.
Ich is also known as White Spot Disease. It is characterized by the presence of small white spots, like a sprinkling of salt, that may appear anywhere on the fish. The fish may dart about in the water, and flick or rub its body against the substrate or other objects in the tank. As the condition advances, the fish may become very slimy, clamp its fins, stop eating, and become very listless.
The standard chemical treatments are often effective, but they can be just as toxic to fish and plants as they are to Ich. Sometimes the medications are not effective. Many aquarists are interested in trying a more natural approach that doesn't subject their fish (or themselves) to potentially dangerous chemicals.
Ich Life Cycle
To better understand how it can be treated, a basic understanding of Ich is helpful:
1. Parasitic Stage - The first stage (trophozoite) is embedded in the skin of the fish, and feeds on fluids and tissue cells. The fish tries to protect itself by producing more cells around the trophozoite, which leads to the formation of the tiny white spots.
2. Intermediate Stage - Eventually the trophozoite morphs into a trophont, detaches from the host leaving an open wound, and swims freely until it locates a suitable place to settle.
3. Reproductive Stage - Once the trophont settles, it forms a sticky wall around itself and becomes a cyst (tomont). Inside, the tomont divides into many hundreds or even thousands of tomites.
4. Infectious Stage - The tomites are released into the water column and swim freely until they attach to a host, starting the cycle over again. If a tomite doesn't find a host within a short period of time, it will die.
The Ich life cycle is temperature dependent. Higher temperatures within its livable range speed up every stage of the life cycle, while the lower temperatures will slow it down. At 18°C/64°F the cycle takes 10-12 days to complete.
It has been found that Ich does not infect new fish at 29.4°C/85°F (Johnson, 1976), stops reproducing at 30°C/86°F (Dr. Nick St. Erne, DVM, pers. comm.), and dies at 32°C/89.5°F (Meyer, 1984), [1]
Treatment
Now that we know a little more about Ich, we can develop a safe and effective natural treatment plan to eradicate it. A multi-pronged treatment plan offers the most assurance of complete eradication of Ich and TLC for the fishes in your aquarium. As with any treatment, carefully observe the reaction of your fish to any changes you make in their environment. If an adverse reaction occurs, discontinue and try another approach.

Mvh.
Morten Lyngsaa